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Am I Forgetting Anything?

EverydayDiesel on Fri May 09, 2008 2:42 AM User is offline


Heres the way it should go in my mind. Am I forgetting anything?

Pour pag oil into compressor and rotate compressor to circulte oil. Amounts vary so check your cars requirements.
Pour pag oil into drier (close back up). Amounts vary so check your cars requirements.
Replace the liquid line since it contains the orface tube that cannot be replaced.
Clean all other lines, with a/c cleaning chemicals and compressed air.
If your adding dye go ahead and add to the low side of the system, install one can of refigerant and start the system with the ac on max to cirulate the dye
Install all parts and the drier last

Vaccume the system. Use a high quality pump to ensure a good vacume. The center/yellow hose will be the hose that you use to pull a vaccume. Connect the high and low cables to the ac system

Let the vacume pump run for an 45-60 mins, note the guage vacume reading on the blue side
Turn the pump off and come back in an hour to make sure the gauges read the same.
If they do then you have a leak and you need to find it

Add refrigerant to the low side one can at a time. Do not turn can upside down and try to keep the can warm in order to get the refrigerant out.

16oz == 1 pound

Guage removal proceduree
disconnect the low pressure side with the engine/compressor running
turn off the truck
wait for the pressures high/low on the guage to equalize
disconnect the high side.



Did I forget anything or is this pretty much the procedure?

Chick on Fri May 09, 2008 7:30 AM User is offlineView users profile

"gage removal procedure
disconnect the low pressure side with the engine/compressor running
turn off the truck
wait for the pressures high/low on the gage to equalize
disconnect the high side. "
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When you have the fill charge in the system, close both wheels on the gage set, then disconnect the yellow hose from the tank or can, close the thumb screw on the high side port connection if equipped, then disconnect the high side fitting. You can shut the system down and let the pressures equalize, once they do, then disconnect the high side coupler, start the car, and open both wheels and let the low side draw in the refrigerant from the manifold set with both wheels open, stop when both gages are equal pressure... BE SURE THE HIGH SIDE IS DISCONNECTED before doing this..

Do not start the car with a partial charge to circulate the dye, it will circulate while the system is running and charging..It goes with the oil and will always circulate
If the pressures DON'T move after an hour, the vacuum is holding and you can begin charging, if the pressures drop, pull another vacuum and repeat
16oz = 1 pound, but most cans are 14ounces
Hope this helps..



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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

HECAT on Fri May 09, 2008 8:56 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: EverydayDiesel

Clean all other lines, with a/c cleaning chemicals and compressed air.




Make sure you have good dry air (i.e. moisture filter/separator) and blow until all the solvent is gone. Check to be sure, blow some more, check again, blow some more, and finally blow some more. Forced air evaporation is how a traditional (100% volatile) A/C cleaning solvent will be removed. Any solvents remaining will dilute and contaminate your fresh oil. Do not use any commercial flush with an oil base as it will not evaporate, and do not rely on the final vacuum process to remove the solvent; you must get it all out before you button up the system.

Good luck with your repair.


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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

EverydayDiesel on Fri May 09, 2008 2:05 PM User is offline

how do you know when the can is empty?
is it as obvious as shaking it?

GM Tech on Fri May 09, 2008 2:56 PM User is offline

Yes- and it becomes warm.........

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

EverydayDiesel on Fri May 09, 2008 3:29 PM User is offline

I need 1.875 lbs which is 30 oz.

Each of my cans are 13 oz each so that means I need 2 and 1/3 cans

Is there a way I can guage 1/3 can? or does it not have to be that accurate?


I have a snapon r134 guage set that I plan on watching as well as the chart from the manufacture with the outside temperature vs low/high pressures

Edited: Fri May 09, 2008 at 3:36 PM by EverydayDiesel

mk378 on Fri May 09, 2008 3:51 PM User is offline

I've never seen a 13 oz can unless it had 12 oz of R-134a and 1 oz of some additive that you don't want. Make sure your cans contain just plain R-134a.

bearing01 on Fri May 09, 2008 4:00 PM User is offline

I would just pull a vacuum for 5 minutes or until the system gets down to around 20" vacuum. Then let it sit for another 5 minutes to see if the pressure rises (looses vacuum).

You can get a cheap $20 postage scale at Harbor Freight that will weight the 12oz cans of refrigerant.

EverydayDiesel on Fri May 09, 2008 7:09 PM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: mk378
I've never seen a 13 oz can unless it had 12 oz of R-134a and 1 oz of some additive that you don't want. Make sure your cans contain just plain R-134a.



you are right, I took them back and got some johnson r134. The other stuff had oil built in and my compressor comes with all the oil i need for the system

Edited: Fri May 09, 2008 at 7:09 PM by EverydayDiesel

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