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Possible to get a leak with all new o-rings&nylog

vdubspeed on Mon May 05, 2008 1:57 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 79
Make: VW
Model: Rabbit C
Engine Size: 1.8
Refrigerant Type: r134a
Ambient Temp: 80
Pressure Low: 30
Pressure High: 200

Recap: System is completely new. only thing reused is evap which is flushed. Everything else is new.

These are the facts:

Friday night ambient temp is 75 and I start pulling the vacuum. I waited the 10 minutes and no drop so I started filling. Got the vent temps down to 37-40 with the compressor cycling perfectly. It was so cold the wife wouldn't even get in the car.

Saturday morning I go crank it up and the the compressor doesn't cycle and the vent temps are not getting as low.

I ASSumed many things. I thought maybe my drier was bad since it didn't come in a vacuum state. I assumed my fill was wrong. I kept thinking it was other things but I never thought it could be a leak.

But after reviewing the main facts...if the a/c was cold one night and not the next...then something leaked out.

So my question is...can a system with all new o-rings AND nylog leak?

Is the UV kit that came with my DIY mastercool kit usefull or should I really anty up the $210 and buy the electronic sniffer.

Thanks as always,

Jason

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I
Edited: Mon May 05, 2008 at 1:59 PM by vdubspeed

mk378 on Mon May 05, 2008 2:30 PM User is offline

Yes you can have a leak. O-rings can get cut while installing. Or there can be foreign material (e.g. cat fur) on the ring preventing a good seal. Or of course there could be a leak that's not at an o-ring.

Did you put the dye in already? Whenever you charge for the first time, install UV dye in case there is a leak later. Even if you don't have dye in start by looking for oil at possible leak spots.

vdubspeed on Mon May 05, 2008 3:07 PM User is offlineView users profile

Well it had dye in it but then blew the highside line so when I drained everything I flushed out "most" of the dye.

Tonight I will inject some in the low side but first I have to clean the engine bay because like I said...when the high side line blew....it blew dye filled freon/oil all over my engine bay so it's going to be rather tough to find the leak.

I'll give it a shot though. I'm sure if I can find the leak that the system will kick ass once recharged properly.

So lastly...the UV stuff works pretty good? No need to drop the bills on the fancy electronic sniffer.

Thanks,

Jason


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TRB on Mon May 05, 2008 4:17 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: vdubspeed
So lastly...the UV stuff works pretty good? No need to drop the bills on the fancy electronic sniffer. Thanks, Jason


Dye works in some cases! I personally prefer an quality electric leak detector.


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Contact: ACKits.com


Edited: Mon May 05, 2008 at 9:24 PM by TRB

brickmason on Mon May 05, 2008 8:56 PM User is offline

Recheck all connection fittings. You may have overlooked one somewhere that needs tightened, or possibly a crossed thread which is not making an adequate seal.

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Just another brick in the wall

Had a little mule I fed him castor oil and every time he jumped the fence he fertilized the soil

Dave in Texas on Tue May 06, 2008 10:49 AM User is offlineView users profile

Waiting 10min isn't much of a wait. Longer/overnight is better. Check the High/Low service valves for the leak. The time-tested spit method works well.


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At 2, I went home with a 10. At 10 I woke up with a 2 !!

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