Model: Intrigue GLS
Engine Size: 3.5L
Ok, I posted about a week ago about removing a V7 clutch and pulley on a Olds Intrigue.
First thank you all for not only a response but such a quick response I really appreciate it.
I removed my clutch and pulley, since the bearing was pined in I had ordered a new clutch pulley set.
I am sorry guys I tried to order from you but you didnÃ¢ÂÂt seem to carry it.
I was (am) hoping to not replace the entire compressor because the air was working fine.
In addition I had great access to the clutch / pulley from the wheel well.
Removing the entire unit would have been a couple days project just from the where it is located.
Ha I am a week and a half into it now.
I received the new clutch and pulley. That did include the clutch magnetic coil.
Compared with the old parts all seemed fine.
I did opt to replace the magnetic coil because the old one was showing the coil wires and thought it best to replace it since it was apart.
Here is my trouble.
It is with the pulley not turning once it is installed all of the way.
Coil seems to be on in the same place as the old one.
Coil fits just fine in the pulley outside of the car.
Pulley fits right on the compressor, until I get to about the last quarter of an inch (just a little less).
I know it is not on all of the way because I can not even see the groove to get the retaining clip on.
I can lightly tap the pulley on the rest of the way but once it do it will not turn.
I pull the pulley back off that last bit and it turns fine again.
Nothing APPEARS to be damaged or beat up.
Am I missing something?
Why is the clutch being replaced...is there evidence of possible overheating? The description of the coil windings showing is normally evidence of severe overheating...the epoxy is melted. The cause of this problem will need to be addressed or the replacement clutch will suffer the same failure.
However, the problem seems to be an interface problem with the coil and pulley assembly. Appears the coil is not 'seated' properly. If the coil is not retained by a snap ring....it is then necessary to press the coil back onto the clutch housing. The rear face of the coil should be flush with the compressor case.
Once the system is operational, be sure to check voltage supply to the clutch, insure that the system is properly recharged (insures good lubricant flow...less drag) and that the engine cooling system is functioning properly. Something made that clutch fail....bearings failures are normally the result of additional heat heat from a slipping clutch. The statement of windings showing....sounds as if there is a serious problem in the system.
Good luck with the repair.
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
The clutch pulley bearings locked up I assume this is what caused the heat.
I really did not catch it. It was winter and I did not stay outside of the car long with it running.
I will check the coil again to make sure it is in all the way in.
That was my first thought but I am a little afraid to push the coil on any harder.
BTW the coil is pressed on and not held in with a clip.
Thanks again for all the advice.
Your coil is not seated properly- It has a special place for the terminals to lay in- so if it is not rotated to the exact spot (plus or minus a couple of degrees) the coil won't seat and the pulley will rub as you have discovered.......
Pulling out that compressor is not that difficult- once you remove the alternator......
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Edited: Wed April 30, 2008 at 3:12 PM by GM Tech
Thank you guys!
I bet you are right with the connection.
As far as removing the compressor...........
Hind site is always 20 20 isn't it.
My original thoughts were.
hmm, Bearing... 20 bucks, Clutch Removal tool 10 bucks.
Again thanks for the help.
If there is one consistent thing that I keep reading on this forum it is buy quality parts.
I did not do that.
I did buy my clutch and pulley assembly from a big box store.
It had a manufactures defect.
I will not tell you the manufacture but it starts with a RE and ends with a MAN.
Given the fact that replacing the clutch bearing is a task that I had yet to tackle in my life I am sure this would have been a non issue for a pro.
You would have seen that out of the box. However I obviously am not a pro when it comes to compressors (lol) and I guess the big box guys arenÃ¢ÂÂt either.
The clutch coil and the pulley would not fit together all of the way. The pulley actually had a defect and was about 15 thousands to big in the center keeping the coil from going in all of the way.
Well thank God I have a friend that is a machinist.
I have learned a lot thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Believe it or not my daughters clutch bearing started to go out last week now?!?
What are the odds of that.
Think I will take a different approach this time.
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