Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

mhfd112 on Wed March 05, 2008 8:37 PM

Year: 1977
Make: Chevy
Model: Truck
Engine Size: 350
Refrigerant Type: empty
Ambient Temp: n/a
Pressure Low: n/a
Pressure High: n/a
Country of Origin: Vatican City State

I just put the engine back in this truck today. I mounted the compressor, but didn't hook up any hoses yet. I left the plate bolted in place on the back of the compressor. (A6) I was doing a 30 minute cam break in and 25 minutes into it the clutch started to smoke. This was a used compressor. I have had it for quite some time. It was working correctly when I removed it from the last truck it was on. The wire for the clutch was connected, but there wasn't any freon in the system so I figured it would be ok.

Any suggestions as to what is going on here?

Thanks,

David

TRB on Wed March 05, 2008 8:51 PM

Sounds like a gap or clutch drag issue to me. A6 clutch bearing and hub are replaceable with the proper tools.

-------------------------

mhfd112 on Wed March 05, 2008 9:17 PM

I found a reman A6 compressor on your site for $112. That is cheaper than the tool set I would need to buy to fix mine.

hmmm... decisions decisions.

mhfd112 on Thu March 06, 2008 1:49 PM

Tim,

I found a hub puller/installer tool. I can now take the clutch off the leaky compressor and put it on the non leaker. I thought while I'm at it I might as well change the shaft seal while I had it apart. Will I need additional special tools if I try to change the shaft seal?

Thanks,

David

TRB on Thu March 06, 2008 3:26 PM

There are required tools to remove and replace the shaft seal on compressors.

-------------------------

Chick on Thu March 06, 2008 3:59 PM

You can check out this post on A6 seals which has a klink to the double lip seal procedure, and it can walk you thru it, also has the part numbers you need for the tools and the seal..Hope this helps.

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

mhfd112 on Thu March 06, 2008 6:23 PM

Thanks Chick.

What is the number for tool with the orange handle that was used to remove the cage?

Chick on Thu March 06, 2008 7:18 PM

I believe the mastercool number is 90414 for the Seal Seat Remover. Hope this helps..


-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

TRB on Thu March 06, 2008 8:25 PM

Just checked and I don't have that in stock. Guess I better get on the ball and adjust the min/max on those. I just got Mastercool in this week so I need to look at the settings.

-------------------------

mhfd112 on Thu March 06, 2008 8:52 PM

When I do a search for 90414 I don't get anything.

Chick on Thu March 06, 2008 8:57 PM

It's sold in the master set, but Tim can order the tools separately.. Mastercools site has changed over the past year, so it's a little confusing. But the guys at Ackits.com can get you anything, especially with the part number.... Hope this helps...

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

TRB on Thu March 06, 2008 9:15 PM

mhfd112 on Fri March 07, 2008 6:04 AM

I may order the set of tools and be done with it.

Thanks for the help.

NickD on Fri March 07, 2008 10:53 AM

I haven't used my A6 hub puller in years, probably should sell it, but just about then may run across an old GM product. Why should your clutch smoke? It certainly shouldn't be engaged with the hoses removed, and certainly not good to manually hot wire it with no refrigerant nor oil in the system. Possible that the pulley bearing is shot, with the belt removed can you easily turn the pulley, should spin like crazy. The hub itself, disengaged should also turn very easily, but it won't spin.

Refresh my memory on this Chick, isn't the shaft of the A6 tapered and the hub will only go on so far? I just can't recall any shims to adjust the clutch gap on these, seems like whatever clutch gap you got, that is what you had to live with.

Those old A6 bearings were though, only had to change one in about over 600,000 miles of driving various GM cars, but were very easy to change.

TRB on Fri March 07, 2008 12:22 PM

No shims, but I have seen many A6 hubs pushed into the pulley because someone dropped or banged it around when installing. Those A6 compressor are heavy when holding with one hand and trying to start a bolt with the other.

-------------------------

mhfd112 on Fri March 07, 2008 1:54 PM

I ordered the gm seal service set, the double lip seal kit, and some bva 100. I hope any other parts I need can be scavenged from the leaker a6 that just came off the truck.

TRB on Fri March 07, 2008 2:15 PM

Just noticed the support, thank you!

-------------------------

mhfd112 on Fri March 07, 2008 5:42 PM

Thanks for the fast service. I noticed the order has already shipped.

Can any of the tools be used when working on compressors other than GM?

TRB on Fri March 07, 2008 5:46 PM

I'm sure the spanner wrench and pliers would work with other models. But for the most part the kit you bought is for GM stuff.

-------------------------

mhfd112 on Sat March 08, 2008 12:27 PM

I took a closer look at the compressor this morning. It looks like there just wasn't enough air gap between the clutch and the drive plate. I took the drive plate off and it looked like it got pretty hot. Do I need to do anything to prepare the surface between the drive plate and clutch when I put it back together?