Engine Size: TDI
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 65
Pressure Low: 110
Pressure High: 110
Country of Origin: United States
This is a new car to me and I and trying to figure out the A/C, car has 205,000 on it. At the vents it blows outside air temp only. Compressor turns on and stays on. I was thinking of changing the expansion valve but do not want to find the compressor is shot after that. What I mean is if I change the expansion valve then I will have to bring it to a shop, have them evac and fill freon, I am ok with that but do not want to find the compressor needs changing after I am done. Any way to test the compressor without doing the above? My guess is not.
If your gauges are hooked up properly, both wheels closed, and those are the pressures, it's the control valve in the compressor, and not just the expansion valve. Check out these quality replacements. The control valves on those are not service friendly like GM control valves... I would change the drier and expansion valve while you have the system open. The list shown is for the 2.0 engine, if you have another engine just look it up on ackits.com website It's a fairly common problem with those variable displacement compressors, and you mileage would also point to that... Do it right and you'll do it once...Hope this helps.
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
yeah I guess I should have put in 1.9L in the engine size but I can look it up just as well. Thanks Chick. Looks like I will have to buy the whole compressor to get the new control valve. I guess I will just replace all parts to do right the first time and have a shop pull it down then charge it up.
I suggest reclaiming the refrigerant and evacuating and recharge to the OEM capacity. Need to be sure you have proper refrigerant level to cycle the compressor to begin with. If you still have static pressures I would consider a new replacement compressor.
I wish I could do that Tim I just don't have that type of equipment. I would have to bring it in to a shop for that. I know its hard to find out what is exactly wrong without having the right equipment. Maybe I can find a shop that will do that for me then if it does not work I can take it back and replace the equipment myself. Just trying to save money by my as few trips as possible to a shop.
I understand but this system will not work without enough refrigerant in the system. Only way to know is to reclaim it and check the capacity. Spending time and money on a item that is not defective is a waste. Checking the MACS site for a local shop is one option. Might be surprised at what a shop will do if you explain what part of the repair you want to do!
I am into saving money especially on a work car, but I also may replace all parts so I do not have to replace something else 6 months from now. Its a 12 year old car and all the A/C components look original. And after looking all the parts up here its about $300 for everyone thing I need, not bad!
I purchased a reman compressor, dryer, o-ring kit, expansion valve, and nylog gasket sealant from this site and will be installing everything this weekend. I am wondering about the PAG oil, do the re-man compressors come with PAG oil in them or do I need to go buy some. If so can you buy PAG oil at parts stores? I have the factory manual and know how much to put in the compressor but I am concerned about adding oil to the dryer and lines I do not want a over oiled system.
Why not flush the entire system and add the factory charge of oil? This way the system will be clean and you'll have the correct oil charge.
I never trust any compressor manufacture to have the correct amount of oil in a compressor. Only exception is certain models of the Sanden and Valeo line. With that said, I would drain the compressor of any oil in it. Flush it with some extra oil you intend to use. Then add the amount called for for you vehicle.
If you have not removed the old oil and debris. You will damaged you new components which will not be covered under the warranty supplied by the compressor manufacture/remanufacture.
Never worked on a VW with the variable displacement compressor, hence my question, but wouldn't a bad control valve allow at least some pumping, and therefore measurable pressure differential? The only time I've seen compressors operate with a zero pressure differential was because of a broken shaft, but not knowing the mechanicals of the VW variable displacement unit, it's hard to visualize. I guess I'm thinking too much along the V5 lines.
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