Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

Provided by www.ACkits.com

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Search Auto AC Forum Archives

1998 chevy 5.7 a/c help

surfercross on Tue January 01, 2008 9:35 AM User is offline

Year: 1998
Make: chevy
Model: 2500 cargo van
Engine Size: 5.7
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Country of Origin: United States

First off great website I found by accident and I am glad I did.Anyways I need to get the a/c working on my van again.I was able to recharge it and it would work but only for 2 weeks so I knew there was a big leak.After going through this site I have concluded that the compressor was leaking because the pics of other comp looked just like mine.There was oil and dirt all around the bottom of it.I took off the comp and it turned fine with no drag and there was no oil in it when I turned it upside down.I took out the orifice tube filter and it was not clogged with debris it did have what looked like dirty oil on it but no chunks or gunk on it.Does the system need to be flushed or will it be okay just leave it.Can it be flushed just with mineral spirits and purged with compressed air?

Cussboy on Tue January 01, 2008 11:13 AM User is offline

See what the real experts here say. But if it was mine - due to your specific issue of case leak, not internal disintegration - I'd replace just the accumulator, orifice tube and compressor. Make sure to drain out the oil from the new compressor, and make sure to add back the correct amount, don't just trust the supplier. My R134a '94 Suburban with R4 compressor had similar leak, and that's what was done to repair it.

surfercross on Tue January 01, 2008 12:16 PM User is offline

Thanks that is what I thought but now I have to replace the evap because where the accum threads on to the evap twisted and broke.How much oil and what kind of oil should be used.

surfercross on Tue January 01, 2008 2:28 PM User is offline

I found the capacities on napas website.Since I am a diy the compressor I bought says to add half the oil in the suction side and the other half to the low pressure side.I know the low pressure side is the accumulator side.Do I add the oil before I put a vacuum on it or after.

Cussboy on Tue January 01, 2008 2:42 PM User is offline

Bummer about the evap - but personally I would always change the accumulator (especially with R134a systems because their oil absorbs moisture from the atmosphere (and yours was open to the air when your refrigerant leaked out) where mineral oil for R-12 doesn't. You can add half the oil to each side when you install it, and manually turn a few revolutions so there's no oil buildup in the cylinders, as the compressor compresses gases, not liquids. Then pull your vacuum, etc.

TRB on Tue January 01, 2008 2:54 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: surfercross
I found the capacities on napas website.Since I am a diy the compressor I bought says to add half the oil in the suction side and the other half to the low pressure side.I know the low pressure side is the accumulator side.Do I add the oil before I put a vacuum on it or after.

Since the system needs to be open to add the oil. It would be best to do it before you pull a vacuum. That is unless you want to pull a vacuum twice.

-------------------------
When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

surfercross on Tue January 01, 2008 3:16 PM User is offline

I replaced the accumulator.should i put some oil in the evap and some in the accum as well as the comp.divide it between all the components.I noticed that when I took the switch off the accum there was some dirty residue around it are they known to leak as well?By the way thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

TRB on Tue January 01, 2008 3:21 PM User is offlineView users profile

It does not hurt to break up the oil amounts. It all gets mixed up pretty quick once you get the compressor turning. I like to have 2/3rds of the oil in the compressor at startup.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Dougflas on Tue January 01, 2008 8:22 PM User is offline

Too bad that you have a damaged connection at the evaporator. Fir anyone else having this problem, here is an article that addresses this. And it works as well as using a product called "Kroil" along with a source of heat.


evap connection

Edited: Sat January 05, 2008 at 6:45 PM by Automotive Air Conditioning Information Moderator

surfercross on Sat January 05, 2008 2:00 PM User is offline

I finally got every thing back together and put a vac on the system.It was doing great and pulled all the way down to 30. so I closed the gauges and let it sit for 10 min and redid the procedure again to get more water out.Now it does'nt want to hold a vac anymore.How do I find the leak now?I replaced the evap accum and compressor.Should I charge the system with a little r134?I did use a oil with uv dye in it.

TRB on Sat January 05, 2008 6:50 PM User is offlineView users profile

Adding some refrigerant and leak checking it would be your next step. You might also want to double check that you don't have a leak in you gauges and the connections. System could be sealed and your leak is in your tools.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Back to Automotive Air Conditioning Forum

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.