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converting a 89 olds v6 to 134 question

Wavecrazed on Thu December 27, 2007 4:52 PM User is offline

Year: 1989
Make: Oldsmobile
Model: Cutlass supreme
Engine Size: 3.3ltr
Refrigerant Type: r-12now

Hi, the clutch fried on my friends compressor. Bought a new one from Az auto air. Where do I find the amount to put in. This car does not have a sticker. I know around 80percent of the r12. I am using 134, flushing and installing. Bought some ester oil. is that good? Tim, Orlando, FL

Chick on Thu December 27, 2007 5:11 PM User is offlineView users profile

Make sure you change the O tube, located behind the header panel as the below pic shows.. very important on those.. Here is a link to refridgerant capacities (sp) that should help. make sure the "fan" works properly also.. After you get about 80% in slow down and feel the suction line, should be cold going into the compressor. Hope this helps.


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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Chick on Thu December 27, 2007 5:15 PM User is offlineView users profile

Opps, the Cutlass "supreme" has the O tube up in the line under the air filter... Sorry, I'll try to find a pic later...have to run out...

Found it fast... here it is..: The O tube is located in the highlighted area....



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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Thu December 27, 2007 at 5:18 PM by Chick

Wavecrazed on Thu December 27, 2007 7:04 PM User is offline

Thanks will look for it. I have a new one. Never did find it on my 94 cavelier wagon.

Chick on Thu December 27, 2007 8:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

On the cavalier it should have been in the outlet of the condenser, but I guess you don't need it now..Anyway, always look for the "dimples" in the line near a connection and that is where the O tube will be.. Some of the earlier Ciera's and Century's had dimples by the evap inlet, but they were mounted in the condenser outlet.. Seen many where a mechanic or owner had two tubes in the system... Thinking the one got blown into the evap, so they added one there......

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Wavecrazed on Fri December 28, 2007 12:52 PM User is offline

Your first pic was right . I'm glad I found the oriface tube this time. it was very clean with only 4 or so specs of dirt in it. I bought the ester oil at Auto zone. Is that the same as mineral oil??It list mineral oil on the chart.

Chick on Fri December 28, 2007 1:44 PM User is offlineView users profile

If you are using R12, then use mineral oil, if using R134a, the ester will be fine. But the system should be flushed of all the old oil..Can't use mineral oil with R134a, but can use ester with both..Just don't like mixing them though...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Wavecrazed on Sat December 29, 2007 9:19 AM User is offline

Help again. I am putting some oil in the new compressor. It will not turn only the pully will turn. Do I need to energize it or something. can I just pour in some oil and hope it doesn't lock up when installed?

Wavecrazed on Sat December 29, 2007 10:33 AM User is offline

Uh OHhhh. I just installed the compressor and found there is a no pressure switch connectior on the back of the new compressor. My car has a two prong wire harness that went to the old one and a two prong wire that goes to the clutch. Do I need to hook this up? It looks to be held into the old and new compressor by a snap ring. Can I take the old one out of the old compressor and install it in the new one? will that snaffu my warrantee? Thanks in advance. Tim Orlando Fl.

Wavecrazed on Sat December 29, 2007 11:48 AM User is offline

well I got lucky again. I just am pulling the thing out with the snap ring around it and installing on the new compressor. Sorry for all the post. Tim

Chick on Sat December 29, 2007 1:10 PM User is offlineView users profile

All new and reman compressors come with a "plug" in the switch port, you have to use your old switch...But you found that out...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Wavecrazed on Sat December 29, 2007 6:24 PM User is offline

I tried to hook the lines to the compressor and by the time I got the one middle bolt holding the two hoses to the compressor all the oil leaked out of the compressor. Could not get it to stop leaking oil and something was wrong with the gasket. Took it off and noticed the upper gasket fell off. I think it may have been not square with the one hose gasket off. It must have fallen off when installing it or taking it off. Well the car ate that one and had to spend 5 more dollars on some more washer gaskets. Gonna try it again tommorrow. Nothing like working upside down under the car on a compressor. I have the car up on those plastic ramps which I like.

Chick on Sat December 29, 2007 6:44 PM User is offlineView users profile

Try putting the sealing washers on the manifold hose, then gently put the hose block in the compressor, start the bolt and when it's snug, then let go and tighten.. You have to "guide" the manifold on or it will chew up the holes where the manifold (hose) assmbly goes, not to mention the sealing washers...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Wavecrazed on Tue January 01, 2008 12:39 PM User is offline

Houston we have a problem.... I think I got the leak sealed at the compressor. There is a leak at the scrader valve at the suction port. It won't come out with the schrader valve tool?. I put a cap on it. I have some gauges with different hoses. Is the port for the suction a different size than the line that goes into the car evaporator? I did not convert to 134 fittings. It seems like the heat is on? I am trying to hook up the gauges properly to get a reading. The gauge with the vacuumed section on there does that hook up to suction and the other gauge goes to the other side? I wonder why i'm getting heat now? I don't think I knocked off any vacuumed hoses. Looks like the high side pressure is around 250 260. I have a fitting for my gauges for the low pressure suction side but it leaks and I am reluctant to put it on as I don't want to buy any more refrigerant. The compressor is on but so is the heater. maybe the door got stuck open when I took off a vacuumed hose in the engine bay. The port where the line goes into the car evaporator and the dryer is reading around 260. Not sure what the other side is reading. My friend came over and is a hvac tech. He thinks I hooked up the compressor backwards. Maybe I got the hose and or compressor twisted. As I am getting high side pressures where there is should be low pressure. It is getting cold on the hose going from the front core to the compressor then no cold to the dryer. Tomorrow's another day. Tim Orlando, FL.

Edited: Tue January 01, 2008 at 3:34 PM by Wavecrazed

Chick on Tue January 01, 2008 3:55 PM User is offlineView users profile

An old saying of mine is "do it right and you'll do it once"... Have the refrigerant recovered and use the "proper" retrofit fittings, the kind that have their own shrader valves, you remove the stock ones and screw them on. Not only is it the "law" but it's the right thing to do. As far as heat, do you have the temp switch turned to cold, is the compressor coming on, is the suction line cold? Post a pioc if you can of what is leaking. If you're talking about a "green cap" that says evap, that is NOT part of the AC system, rather the emmisions system....The cost of refrigerant is minimal compared to ruining your compressor..Hope this helps..

Also: Did you pull a deep vacuum? How much R134a did you put in? Looking at the gauges, the one on the left (with vacuum scale) is the low side (Suction), the one on the right, with higher PSI numbers, is the high side...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Tue January 01, 2008 at 4:30 PM by Chick

Wavecrazed on Tue January 01, 2008 6:39 PM User is offline

Hi is the compressor coming on,YES THE COMpressor is engaging is the suction line cold?NOt sure which line is suction but one of them is. Post a pioc if you can of what is leaking.There are two hoses together to the block at the compressor. One goes to the pass side of the grill condensor and to the compressor. If you're talking about a "green cap" that says evap, that is NOT part of the AC system, rather the emmisions system.... Didn;t make that mistake. The cost of refrigerant is minimal compared to ruining your compressor..Hope this helps..

Also: Did you pull a deep vacuum? yes several times. to 29lbs hlgms etcl. How much R134a did you put in?.... 3 cans of 12 oz totaling 35 oz ..80% of 44 oz R-12. Looking at the gauges, the one on the left (with vacuum scale) is the low side (Suction), the one on the right, with higher PSI numbers, is the high side... I do think somehow I got the compressor spun around and hooked up the hoses to the two holes backwards. I think I should see if the grill condensor is getting cold tomorrow.

Chick on Tue January 01, 2008 6:54 PM User is offlineView users profile

The condenser should be warm to hot, depending on the ambient temp. (It's on the high side of the loop) You can't put the manifold (hoses on rear) on backwards, that would be to much of a twist and I have never seen that happen... Only one hose should be cold, that is the suction side, same side the accumulator is on..If it's getting very cold, you have a blend door problem, but post the pressures as soon as you can..Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

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