Engine Size: 455
Refrigerant Type: r-12
Anyone know where I can locate and purchase a Auto Temp Control tester J-23678 71-74 gm. thanks scott
Make sure you have plenty of room on your VISA card...
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.
How about a nice used one!
Wasn't that a piece of required test equipment to test out the ATC units on these cars? Like a box with a couple of knobs on it and a connector. Recall reading about that in my old 70 Buick Riviera shop manual, my unit cooked me out on a hot summer day during a thunderstorm, no dang way to turn the sucker off. Recall the entire vehicle circuit including the ATC was on a colored fold out schematic on the last page of the book. Pull the entire module out, set it on my workbench, cleaned it, repaired all the cold solder joints, lubricated the door shafts and used a couple of pots and a decade resistance box to emulator the in-car sensor and a couple of other things that fed it. Recall it was a one transistor circuit driving a servo motor that operated the blend door,
Recall the entire circuit was there, not like these newer cars that just show a block, that red/blue temperature control knob on mine was dirty, took that apart and cleaned it for a constant change in resistance as it was rotated. That was in series with the in-car sensor that generated an error signal to that single transistor, circuit didn't give the component values, but not much there and could read the values off the components. You could see everything work in front of your eyes, practically all electro-mechanical, think I only spend 2-3 hours on it. Put it back in and worked for years afterwards without problems, didn't need that required tester.
Yes, it is used to test out the ATC system. My A/C tech. doesn't have this tester and he thinks the problem is in the programmer.
What programmer? This thing was made when electronics was electronics with discrete components. What is your system doing or not doing? I seem to recall a motor driven mode switch that selected both vacuum and some electrical functions and you could watch it work and a similar switch with resistors to control the blower motor speed. Been like 30 years ago so memory is a bit rusty, but do recall that foldout on on the rear of the shop manual had the complete electrical diagram and was easy to follow and the entire module was not that difficult to remove and set on the bench.
That tester just emulated some on vehicle sensors that are typically the in-car, ambient, solar, and a thermostatic switch on heater hose so the heater wouldn't work until the engine heated up, but you did have defrost. It wouldn't work anyway if the Packard Electric unplated brass terminals were green, and that is what I am saying, you can see the terminals and all the switch contacts, and more than likely they need cleaned. Motors can be tested and you will find dirt and rotten rubber seals. No longer have the shop manual nor the car, but if you can get a manual, the complete circuit is in there, you don't need that tester.
If you look at a shop manual for a 71 buick there is a reference to a programmer under the ATC section. It contains a transducer, amplifier board and other components. It would be considered the brains of the ATC system. He is checking the operation of each component of the system but having the tester would make it simpler.
My problem is that I have no heat...A/C is cold!
Just too many years, too many changes and only one brain cell left, but kind of feel your thermostatic heater switch on one of the heater hoses is bad. Remember it was a fun system to work on.
I have one. Would like to sell it.
Contact me at [email protected]
Hope this is ok with Tim. If need be, I'll sell it to Tim first.
Dougflas, can you post a picture of it? Just for old time, sakes. Thanks.
yeah, sure Nick. It'll probably be Sat before I get a chance. This guy does Fords, GM, And Chyslers. It checks the programers and vehicle wiring and sensor strings. I paid a lot for it in 1978.; over 500.00 bananas and that was alot of bananas back then. I don't think there's a scratch on as I take good care of my equipt.
Here ya go Nick. Please don't get too sad as you remeber the older days. I used to go to car swaps, bring this tester with me and trouble shoot problem cars. Charged 20 to 25 bucks and thought I was making a killing. The good thing was I could check them without removing anything. I just had the owner connect everyting as I watched.
Edited: Sat December 08, 2007 at 11:09 AM by Dougflas
Yours is quite a bit more complicated than the one I remember and seeing names on yours such as GM, Ford, and Chrysler plus covering a broader range of vehicles, pre and post 1971. See a volt-ohm meter and a vacuum gauge with dedicated electrical and vacuum connectors, would make testing a lot easier by making one or two vehicle connections and turning knobs for each parameter, then just using a volt, ohm, or vacuum gauge and have to count pin numbers or identify the proper hose for making that measurement. But could also be done with a Simpson 260 and a vacuum gauge, takes longer, but possible.
Ha, just wondering, could a guy use that analyzer if the instructions were lost.
I'd hate to answer that one!! Seems the older I get, the more I forget. Actually, you need the instructional book you see there as it gives step by step tests, and also tells the switch set up.
I always buy first class test equip. I like dynamic testing instead of static testing. This way, marginal intermitent parts can be caught the first time. We've both had done extensive electronics so you know what I'm talking about.
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