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Nice work Chick.

TRB on Fri November 16, 2007 10:17 AM User is offlineView users profile

Thank you for the addition to the procedures and tips forum. Only reason you see the edit at the bottom was I made it a sticky for a year. Well done my friend.

http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=20&threadid=18627

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Edited: Fri November 16, 2007 at 10:18 AM by TRB

JACK ADAMS on Fri November 16, 2007 12:13 PM User is offline

How many times did you drop the key on the floor? You still did a good job!! I soak the shaft seal in oil for about 5-10min prior to installing. Nice pictures, which could help someone feel more comfortable about doing the job!!

Chick on Fri November 16, 2007 12:59 PM User is offlineView users profile

Thanks guys, it could have been better, but I did the seal yesterday and had to take the pics myself too..A little clumbsy to say the least. I would have liked a few different pics, but as I said, rough doing it alone..My old computer crashed a couple weeks ago, and I don't have all the Mastercool part numbers, posted those I had, but once I get them, I will add by "reply" all the numbers. The R4/A6 use a different installer and removal tool for the clutch (most anyway)

Thanks again to Bohica for turning me on the "Irfanview" photo resizing program. Otherwise they would have really taken up space...Love that program for resizing...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

TRB on Fri November 16, 2007 1:18 PM User is offlineView users profile

You can just edit the post as you have the rights to do that.

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Contact: ACKits.com

JJM on Fri November 16, 2007 8:43 PM User is offline

Geeez Chick... how are the rest of us gonna compete with THAT???

Extraordinary job... even I could follow it. I honesty don't think there's a better "professional" publication illustrating the procedure so well. Maybe now more compressors will be repaired instead of replaced.

Hey, but let's up the ante a little bit... if you REALLY want to impress us, let's see if you can illustrate a full rebuild on an FX-15



Joe

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TRB on Fri November 16, 2007 8:53 PM User is offlineView users profile

Come on Joe, that's easy if you work at some compressor companies.

Drop compressor in paint bucket.

Re-box with new label!

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Chick on Fri November 16, 2007 9:04 PM User is offlineView users profile

Sorry Joe, all I have are pics of "blown" FX15... (Not pretty...) Thanks for the compliment..Appreciate it, and hope it answers the questions we always get on changing shaft seals on GM's...

And a BIG thanks to GMtech fior walking me thru my "first" one a couple years back...I always changed the compressors too...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Fri November 16, 2007 at 9:13 PM by Chick

bohica2xo on Sat November 17, 2007 3:18 AM User is offline

Chick:

Great job! Like Joe said, many manuals should have info that good. Glad to see that irfanview worked out for you.


Joe:
For an FX-15, I have found a 10 round burst of 50 BMG to be the best method. Generally cures everything wrong with one...

B.

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"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.

GM Tech on Sat November 17, 2007 10:01 AM User is offline

Chick good job--- the only thing I do different- is that I always bend the clutch key a tad- and insert in halfway down in the clutch- not the shaft- then there is little or no chance of dropping it out- and there is still room for the insertion tool. The key sticks out of the clutch driver about a 1/4 inch- then I rotate it until it starts onto the shaft, then I insert my clutch installer tool- I did my first one as you described and soon learned to do my last 3500 or so as I described-- you only press a key through the new shaft seal once until you discover a better way. H-6 and R-4 clutch keys are pre-bent from factory installation-- the v-5 keys are longer and not pre-bent- and are prone to slip out easier- these are the ones I bend a little-- or you can always use an H-6 key in a V-5 application. Also the pulleys by design are press fit onto the front head-- but some times will slip off- I always use a pulley puller on it anyway......good job on documenting the procedure---- I have often contended the only thing wrong with most compressors is the leaky shaft seal- no need to replace the entire compressor.............

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Chick on Sat November 17, 2007 10:55 AM User is offlineView users profile

Thanks GM Tech, coming from you it's a "real" compliment. I don't know if you remember when I began doing them, I screwed up a couple seals, and you walked me thru it. Now it's like one, two, three.. I'd love to crawl around your brain for a day... Anyway, if you don't mind I will copy and paste your reply and add it to the post. I sometimes do bend the key if it's loose, but they usually stay on until the clutch is lined up, but as I said, once it becomes old news, you forget to add it.. Pushing the key half way into the clutch is really "easier", and I think people should be aware of that. Thanks again.....

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

NickD on Sun November 18, 2007 5:56 AM User is offline

Very nice pictures, Chick, how did you manage not to get redeye in the eyes of the retainer rings? What struck me first is the amount of rust on the compressor shaft, can NJ have worse rust than WI? Did Tim ever see rust before?

Clean the inside of the seal chamber with what? Seal still in of course, I use Choke and Carb cleaner followed by an airblast, it's kind of a rathole that collect clutch face debris, even use Q-tips and some wet and dry 400 grit sandpaper, cleaning the shafthole is one of the worse parts of this job, makes a guy wonder if the designer of these shaftholes are shaftholes.

Your photo of inserting the O-ring reminded me of shoveling coal in a furnace, maybe you should mention this phase is a bitch, O-ring wants to twist and turn and really doesn't want to spend the rest of it's life in that O-ring groove and will fight you to it's last dying breath not to get in there. But it has to be well seated and not twisted in the groove. Actually this operation is much easier with the shaft removed, can barely get my baby finger in there to smooth it out and sometimes have to find a baby with a real baby finger. The book says to soak this O-ring in the refrigeration oil, same with the seal, what about using Nylog? Think this is the first time you posted without using the word Nylog in the thread.

I am not a pro and shouldn't even dare to suggest my method of installing the key, logic tells me to put the key in last, tap the hub on very lightly with the key slots aligned, then insert the key and tap that in. That way the pusher forces the key into the slots leaving the key outer surface flush with the hub. You know it ain't going to get jammed into the seal. That kind of ruins your day.

Also should mention to use your baby finger to check the shaft for seal groove wear, this is kind of a wild ass judgement call, if worn, you may want to give the entire compressort to Four Season's for a repaint job and let someone else worry about it. Still amazes me how a soft rubber seal can machine a deep groove in steel. The shaft is made out of steel, isn't it?

Finally, (Tim is saying thank God, Nick is finally saying finally), can you really change a seal wearing a glove? I can remove a tire with gloves on, but that is as far as I can go, then it's bare fingers to feel what I am doing. But a guy has to be carefull where he sticks that finger, if it wants it back, again.

Chick on Sun November 18, 2007 7:18 AM User is offlineView users profile

The gloves were because I painted the pulley and clutch plate with engine paint so they would show up better, and to "try to keep" oil off my camara.. Easier to wipe oil from the gloves, or just remove them than to clean your hands every five minutes..The rust was after it was all wire brushed off making the rust stand out better..On the Caprice the clutch faces forward so yes, it gets pretty rusty.. As far as cleaning, I use brake parts cleaner, but carb cleaner works too..Anything that will cut grease. I took quite a few pics, only some are shown. Like putting the O ring in, you'll notice no oil on it..Hard to take pics with one hand while the O ring is slipping out of your fingers.. Q-tips work great for cleaning around the nose, and the seal really dosen't touch the sides, only seats over the O ring, but the shaft needs to be clean, or get the seal as far down before removing the shaft seal protector. Below is a pic of the O ring coming out..You'll see the oil involved... really didn't think the lack of oily pictures were that important..I think it would be harder cleaning my camara...




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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

TRB on Sun November 18, 2007 12:32 PM User is offlineView users profile

Sure we see rust out here. We get the freaking snow birds vehicles and their rust every year. But I will say we don't see rust as bad as what Chick posted to often.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

NickD on Sun November 18, 2007 6:38 PM User is offline

Minnesota produces a lot of that stuff, they call it ferrous oxide, iron ore, taconite, but they never call it rust. But rust it is, steel is made out of rust, and to rust, it shall return, normally long before your last payment is due.

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