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Should I remove the AC?

janbanan24 on Tue September 04, 2007 7:00 AM User is offlineView users profile

Year: -79
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Corvette
Engine Size: 383


Can any one of you people who seem to know a lot about AC-systems tell me, or share some good link to a web page where I can find out, how to control the status of the different parts of my AC system?

I have a Corvette that I'm tearing down for a big overhaul of frame and engine.

Now I'd like to have an AC system in the car when it's finished, but a lot of people seem to take the old systems out for different reasons!?

Now that I've taken the compressor and condenser out, is there something I should do right away?

Flush the system with water?

There was like 2 tea-spoons of "green stuff" that came out of the condenser when I removed it and the compressor-wheel can be tured with allmost no resistance at all. Does that mean that the system has not been used recently and that the compressor is faulty?

JJM on Tue September 04, 2007 7:39 AM User is offline

383 CID engine in a '79 Corvette? I assume this is a stroker mod of the factory 350, because the only engine option available for '79 was the 350.

Water is the absolute last thing you'd want in any A/C system... unless you enjoy pulling every last strand of hair out of your head. Best thing to do is immediately cap (seal) components, except for the receiver dryer - that you'll throw out.

The green stuff coming out of the condenser likely was just UV dye mixed with in with it... hopefully. Was this an unmolested factory R-12 system?

As for why people remove A/C systems... THEY'RE IDIOTS is the only explanation I can come up with. What other possible reason could there be? Is removing the A/C going to give you an extra second on the quarter mile? Is removing the A/C going to make you more comfortable when it's 90F outside? The only reason I can see for removing the A/C is if you think you're a Corvette "expert" (so many out there have deluded themselves into thinking they're one) but find A/C systems "too complicated" (and they're not). Other than that I can't see any reason to remove the A/C system.


When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you:

janbanan24 on Tue September 04, 2007 9:40 AM User is offlineView users profile

Thanks for the quick answer!

Yes, it's a stroker and the engine is not the original motor for the car, so since I don't know much about AC systems, I have no idea about if the system is original or unmolested or what a R-12 system is!?

From what I can see, the compressor has the Harrison label that seems to be original, and the mounting to the engine seems to be original also. Only modified in order to fit headers to the engine.

Why should I seal the components? ...and now that I haven't done that, have I ruined anything? (Unsealed for two weeks)

Is it really normal for the pump/compressor to turn without resistance?

Why throw out the receiver dryer? it the drier/acumulator?

Thanks again!

Edited: Tue September 04, 2007 at 10:10 AM by janbanan24

TRB on Tue September 04, 2007 12:33 PM User is offlineView users profile

We do the two piece accumulator setup. I need to raise my price to compete with the Corvette link.




When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you:

janbanan24 on Tue January 19, 2010 7:53 PM User is offlineView users profile

Ok, I'm back!

After some serious detective work in all the cut up cables and new connections, colors of wires and relays I've come to understand that my system has been run without "Discharge pressure sw", "Temp sw", "Compressor sw" and "Idol stop solenoid" ...which I don't know what it is!

As it is now when you hit than AC switch in the car you will have power to the AUX-fan and the compressor without any "security". The only unattached switch I've found is sitting on one of the pipes. I think it is the "Discharge pressure switch"!? ...but the connector that seems to fit it is "jumpered" with a piece of wire, and if I remove that it will cut power to the AUX-fan, not the compressor! ...I don't get it!? tube, and accumulator!? Was that to accept the new "coolant"? Do I need to identify some other parts of the system, and can I check them somehow?

JACK ADAMS on Mon February 08, 2010 2:59 PM User is offline

What Joe was trying to say about capping off all your connection is, moisture and R-12 refrigerant will make sulfuric acid and will end up eating the aluminum component. Vacuum will not always remove all the moisture, so cap off all of your connections for this project till your ready to re-assemble. Flushing each component will help remove all oils and debris prior to re-installing. Be sure to follow flushing with dried air or Nitrogen.

If you are planning on a 134a conversion then you will need to replace the condenser with a PFC. As for your wiring you will still have to use the Hi-switch on the liquid line that you found with the jumper as well as the Low pressure/cycling switch either way you go.

ice-n-tropics on Mon February 08, 2010 5:28 PM User is offline

Vett Guy,
The following are my 2 cents for reasons to remove your entire A/C and install a new high efficiency light weight A/C system:
1) Sounds like your A/C has undergone many electrical system compromises.
2) System has been open for weeks and components need to be flushed to get all the moisture contaminated oil and foreign trash out.
3) The heavy steel/iron Harrison A-6 compressor (12.6 cu in) and heavy mounting brackets are unnecessary and have a terrible horsepower parasitic draw. The A/C compressor may have valve damage if it doesn't pump. A 8.6 cu in aluminum compressor with aluminum mounting brackets are often used for add on A/C for 2 passenger Vetts
4) The too high refrigerant mass flow resulting from the monster displacement compressor marganilizes the heat dissipation from the condenser when conversion to R-134a is performed. After market units use a light weight more efficient parallel flow condenser
5) Unacceptable high side pressures affects drivability during acceleration in hot climates especially with the factory components converted to R-134a.
6) The evaporator design in 79 forces 30 to 40% hot/humid outside air into the intake instead of 100% cool dry recirculated air when a modern A/C system is used. This wastes power.
7) A proper replacement A/C heat/cool system has a hot water shut off valve to optimize cold A/C air.
8) Under hood space and aesthetics is improved when a compact heat cool unit is used.
9) The OEM refrigerant expansion device is not optimized when converted to R-134a.
10) Those old hoses leak R-134a.

Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy. How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

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