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an 85 BMW conversion/repair

fastrc2 on Fri August 24, 2007 8:34 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1985
Make: bmw
Model: 528td
Engine Size: 2.8
Refrigerant Type: 134

ok this is a car i am helping, i originally got to it, without any charge at all, it was empty. added some 134 and found the leak, it is the hose on the condensor side from the compressor, [this line is split into two hoses] it is leaking from the ferrule crimp. however, the high side would not even get luke warm, and the low side not any cold. i realized that it was sucking the low side to a vacuum, since the needle was pegged at zero, but when the car sat for more than 10 minutes the low side rose to 75. as soon as the air was selected to run, and the clutch ran, the needle snapped to zero. so we took it apart, hoping the drier was plugged, nope, shot the hose at the drier to the evaporator with the oter end disconnected, and no air came out, took out the evaporator, and found the expansion valve was plugged with dessicant from the drier. so now we have flushed it out by doing each piece separatley from the evaporator to the drier by pouring in rubbing alcohol, and shooting compressed air repeatedly, and then just air to rid any liquid alcohol. our plan is to reassemble with a new txv, drier, and the hose that was originally leaking will be replaced. now my questions are i know that the systems spec for oil is 5 to 6 ounces [from a dealer] and as 5.5 as a mean, i assume that if the compressor still has oil and the condenser, i should probably measure out 3.5 ounces and pour it into the drier. then reassemble. we plan to use ester as i believe it is fit for a retrofit to 134. i plan to charge the same weight of 134, which i believe is 3.4 or 3.3 lb. i need advice if i am doing this correctly, as this repair is already expensive, i don't want to go back in it again. o and i am replacing all o-rings with the proper size and type of new ones, green in color for 134 a/c. please let me know of advice, my email is [email protected]

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wish in one hand, poop in the other see which fills first.

Chick on Fri August 24, 2007 8:51 PM User is offlineView users profile

For a retrofit, follow the Vac.charge procedures on this page. if you can, it would pay to remove the compressor, and flush it with ester oil to get rid of the mineral oil, and any contaminates that may have made it thru.. Then add a couple ounces to the compressor and the rest to the drier. Once installed just turn the compressor hub by hand to move excess oil out into the lines. You want it lubed on start up... Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

fastrc2 on Fri August 24, 2007 9:04 PM User is offlineView users profile



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wish in one hand, poop in the other see which fills first.

fastrc2 on Sun August 26, 2007 1:24 PM User is offlineView users profile

i am more worried about how much oil or refridgerant to use as compared to the factory specs for r 12.

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wish in one hand, poop in the other see which fills first.

HECAT on Mon August 27, 2007 9:54 AM User is offline

What do you plan on doing about the desiccant material still in the compressor and condenser?

Make sure you remove all the alcohol as it is incompatible with aluminum and if allowed to remain in the system, will react with refrigerant and oils to form organic acids.

The refrigerant oil amount is the same as factory spec for a retrofit.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

iceman2555 on Mon August 27, 2007 3:51 PM User is offlineView users profile

Depending upon what type of 'rubbing alcohol' is being used....this stuff has some serious water issues in some cases as much as 30-40%. Not to mention, perfume...makes the ac smell so sweet.....flammability issues.....???
If using as a cleaner...suggest to use, Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol, 99%, at least....less water.
Three oz of lube in a drier to entirely too much...no more than 1 oz...a rec/drier/filter will 'lock' with too much lubricant and become a serious restriction.
Follow Chicks advice about the compressor.
Normal recharge rate of 134a to 12 is to begin a refill at app 75% and work upwards to achieve desired results. However, since a serious (?) attempt is being made to flush and clean the system....start at about 80-85%. The lower refill rate was set to allow for residual lubricants with in the system.
However, the amount of water that has possibly been added to this system is down right scary.....and how are ya gonna get it all out......water can and will cause some serious issues with POE lubricants.



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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

fastrc2 on Thu August 30, 2007 5:51 PM User is offlineView users profile

ok the job has been completed, we followed the alcohol with a bunch of compressed air, and then more and more air, we let it sit for a couple of days, and blew out the last of it, no more odor of it is there, there is no dessicant in the compressor, condensor or the evaporator, as we found the expansion valve caught it all, we went to flush the evaporator, thinking some had gotten in, and it was clean, clear and high flow. after we were confident of the removal of the alcohol, we replaced the hose at the condensor that was leaking, the drier, and the expansion valve, o we also cleaned the line from the drier to the evaporator. once reassembled we pulled a deep vacuum using a 3 cfm vacuum pump we borrowed from a buddy who does house airconditioning, pulled it for 20 minutes and held it for 10, then charged and found it is working great!

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wish in one hand, poop in the other see which fills first.

HECAT on Fri August 31, 2007 8:47 AM User is offline

Great News!

Glad to hear you went the "extra mile" to be sure all the cleaner was removed. Regardless of the A/C flush chosen, it is most important to be diligent about it's proper removal.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

fastrc2 on Fri September 07, 2007 11:13 PM User is offlineView users profile

i hope somebody knows about beamers, i just heard from the owner he took a long trip in the car, and noticed a water sloshing sound in the heater box and the console felt a little damp, and when he parked the car from a 50 minute trip, he looked and no water draining, next mourning a puddle under the car and the noise was gone, why would the water be sloshing in the box? we know the drain worked when we charged it up becuase i saw a lot of dripping down there, i hope something is just plugging it, and i hope its not freezing up.

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wish in one hand, poop in the other see which fills first.

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