Ambient Temp: 90-110
hi guys i have had problems with my ac in my car dont know much about it either so bare with me. it started a couple of weeks ago and it was just not staying cold so i check the pressure with a kit from walmart. that might be the first problem i have the big kit just did not feel like dragging it out i added a full can add it was cold for about a week and a half. so when it was not staying cold i put in some sealer and dye but when i put in the dye there was no major sings of dye so i figured it sealed it. and added some more refrigerant but i did seam to stay cold for a little longer but still did not stay cold. am i just not putting a refrigernat in so can yall give me some advice thanks.
Edited: Fri August 24, 2007 at 3:42 PM by carcrazy
WOOOOWWWWW!!! Where to start? Seems for sure there is a leak in the system or why would it need refrigerant...or was there another underlying problem that made one think the system was low.....mmmmm......but lets go with the leak idea.
First idea would be to get rid of the severely contaminated system in your vehicle. Finding a shop to recover this mess will be difficult and perhaps even quite costly. For us to remove this mess is expensive and payable in CASH!!! Get that sealer stuff outta there. Hate sealers....all of them..no matter who makes them. But the system needs to be recovered, disassembled so it can be cleaned/flushed to remove residual sealer and lubricant. Would not worry with an attempt to flush the condenser...unless you can locate a dealer that uses some of HECATS flush equipment ( Carl...send the check to the Belieze account).....change the darn thing.
Remove the evap...check for possible leakage (dye) on the case. If leakage areas are not noticed....flush and clean thoroughly.
Remove and replace (new) TXV. Reinstall in vehicle. Remove the compressor and drain the lubricant....add clean lubricant,rotate compressor couple dozen rotations....drain and repeat.....do this until the lubricant is clean. Also do this with lubricant that does not have dye...this way you can be assured that the contaminated lubricant is totally removed. Since nothing was said about a noisy or possible faulty compressor....relube and reinstall the compressor.
Flush all hose assemblies...if equipped with mufflers or filters....replace hose assemblies.
Evac and recharge the system....no need to start or energize the compressor....static pressures may be sufficient to test for a leak. Locate and repair the leak. Use a good leak detector and test for areas of concern......every connection...evap once more....compressor...etc.
Energize system and test for operational pressures and temps.
If leak can not be located....run vehicle for a period of time and recheck for evidence of leakage....the dye thing again.
It is known that this an expensive and time consuming repair...but there is only one way to properly accomplish a satisfactory A/C repair.....DO IT RIGHT!!!!
Considering the possible mileage......the possibility that the system has been operated undercharged for a period of time and the possible resultant compressor damage.....check the compressor very carefully...it may need to be replaced...esp with the cost of possible new parts...i.e. condenser...drier...txv etc.
Good luck with this repair.
Insure that engine cooling system is fully operational.....fans...radiator....etc.
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judging from the users post, I doubt they have the experience necessary to do what you described iceman.
Basically, your small problem has now become a big one, especially with you using the 'sealer', which was a big mistake as they cause more trouble than they are worth. So, unless you want to do a lot of reading, and get your hands dirty, take it to a shop, and prepare to dig deep in your pockets
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