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GM front seal replace?

Huskyguy on Thu April 26, 2007 7:05 PM User is offline

Year: 1995
Make: Pontial
Model: Bonneville
Engine Size: 3.8L
Refrigerant Type: 134A

I'm considering changing out the front seal on my '95 Bonneville AC compressor. I have the gauge set, vac pump, and a moderate amount of knowledge (was a line mechanic, NIASE certified in AC back in late 70's). Everything was working perfectly, but noticed the oil stains around the front seal, ultimately ruined the clutch. I'm feeling like the compressor is in fine shape internally, and have a new clutch for it.
My question is this - has anyone changed out one of these front seals...on the car? Or on the bench? Being a bit on the lazy side, I don't want to work any harder than I have to so thought I'd ask for any known shortcuts. Need a special tool to remove/install the seal? I'm feeling like the best course is to take the compressor off the car since you do need to have a fairly exact amount of oil in there.
I've tried wading through the AMA website for a seal kit, but apparently not bright enough to actually find what looks like a front seal; I see o-ring kits, but not a front seal..is the front seal included in one of the o-ring kits?

thanks in advance....

Chick on Thu April 26, 2007 8:24 PM User is offlineView users profile

You do have enough room on the Bonniville to change it on the car, but it's a lot easier to do them off on the bench. You can leave the pully on, and just remove the outer hub. Do you have the tools for removing the hub? It's pressed fit, and here are pics from another thread on clutch removal in case you're rusty. If you have the tools from the 70's, they won't work as the hub is going to have metric threads now. You do need the seal removal tool, good interanl snap ring plyers, a double lipped front seal (won't leak like the old one) and a shaft protector so as not to knick the new seal. The seal and seal removal tool looks like the one in the below pic

Yopu can e-mail the guys at Ackits.com and they can supply you with the New double lipped seal, and the tools needed. I have the mastercool part numbers handy if you need them..Hope this helps.

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Huskyguy on Tue May 08, 2007 9:14 PM User is offline

I was thinking of doing it on the car so as not to have to (maybe) not replace the receiver dryer since the system wouldn't be as "wide open" as it would be when removing the compressor completely. And by not removing the compressor I wouldn't have to replace the o-rings associated the connections... Lazy could be my middle name.

And I would appreciate the mastercool numbers as I'm ready to buy the tool and seal, and o-ring kit when I breakdown and remove the compressor from the car.

Will I need to replace the receiver dryer? That used to be a fairly hard and fast rule, not sure about now? And again... thanks!

Chick on Tue May 08, 2007 9:39 PM User is offlineView users profile

Mastercool:
Clutch removal tool 91212
Installer tool 91260
nut and bearing used with installer tool (washer) 90458
Shaft seal removal tool 90486
shaft seal protector 90484
GM double lipped seal #2724954 or Delco15-30948 but Tim has them too along with all the above mastercool tools...Hope this helps.

You won't need to change the accumulator for a leak, but i would pull and check the O tube..If clogged, then change the accumulator..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Tue May 08, 2007 at 9:40 PM by Chick

RayG on Wed August 29, 2007 10:32 PM User is offline

Hi
Can you explain how the seal goes on the shaft. Which direction does the the seal protector go on. I have the tool just not shre of how to use it properly
Ray

Chick on Wed August 29, 2007 10:42 PM User is offlineView users profile

It is just like in the pic, the seal protector slides over the shaft, then the seal goes over it, facing out, and use the removal tool on the right to push it in place. The seal is laying in the pic the way it goes in, facing outwards.. Just reverse of when you remove the old one, the removal tool fits in the recess of the seal..Hope this helps..

When it slows down I have to take some pics of doing it... Maybe GM tech has them already...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

RayG on Wed August 29, 2007 11:02 PM User is offline

Thanks
Just a little confusing when the lip starts out facing in then ends up facing out after it goes on the shaft. Does that sound right?
Thanks again
Ray

Chick on Wed August 29, 2007 11:07 PM User is offlineView users profile

No, it should not change shape, make sure the shaft protector is oiled well with refrigerant oil (mineral) It should fit over the bump on the protector easily..I had some "small" shaft seals once that gave me the same problem..

GM double lipped seal #2724954 or Delco15-30948

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Edited: Wed August 29, 2007 at 11:08 PM by Chick

RayG on Wed August 29, 2007 11:19 PM User is offline

So I guess its probably on wrong. The opening barely fit over the threaded rod. The flexible part folded back toward me when I put it on

Chick on Wed August 29, 2007 11:23 PM User is offlineView users profile

Yes, that sounds like the small one. Should not touch the threads, as it can nick the seal also, always use a seal protector...Dealer gets them next day if not in stock, use the GM number for it..Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

RayG on Wed August 29, 2007 11:44 PM User is offline

Do you know the GM part number for a 95 Deville seal 4.9 litre?
The seal I used was from a SK-705N Kit

Chick on Thu August 30, 2007 5:39 AM User is offlineView users profile

The seal number above is the GM number for the V5, H6 alike.. Thats the one you need...
GM double lipped seal #2724954 or Delco15-30948

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

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