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HT6 Compressor Oil Questions

SMAir on Thu August 24, 2006 9:59 AM User is offline

Year: 1996
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Tahoe
Engine Size: 5.7L
Refrigerant Type: R143a
Country of Origin: United States

I've got to change out the HT6 compressor on my uncle's 1996 Tahoe. The system is still working, but leaking badly. This will be my first HT6 replacement - I have replaced a number of R4s in the past. Unfortunately, I do not have a factory manual on this vehicle so I have some questions about oil capacity and how to measure it.

1. What is the oil capacity for this compressor?
2. Do I add oil to the new compressor based on how much oil I drain from the old compressor? What are the numbers to look for?
3. I also am going to replace the accumulator/drier. How much oil do I add for replacing this part?

I know I need to be particularly careful in mounting the new compressor, torquing the mounting bolts equally so that the body is not distorted. Any other helpful hints on installing this compressor?

Any recommendations on brand (Delphi, Visteon, Sanden) and class (new or remanufacturered)?

Thanks for your help.

Tom

Chick on Thu August 24, 2006 11:49 AM User is offlineView users profile

As long as you're changing it just due to leaking, I would go with the Seltec clone which is a better compressor in my opinion. You can get the accumulaotr and double end capped PAG 150 from Ackits.com as well. I'd add three ounces to the compressor and two to the accumulator.. a system flush is not needed if only a leak in the system...Hope this helps.

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

SMAir on Thu August 24, 2006 10:51 PM User is offline

It turns out that my uncle may doesn't need a compressor after all. (He had been told that he needed a compressor by the last person to service his system). I checked the system for leaks tonight using a CPS L-790a leak detector. This is my first attempt to work on a 134a system - I've been maintaining R-12 systems for years. No leaks at all around the compressor. I couldn't find any leaks any where I looked. I even cracked the evaporator case open and probed there. Every once in a while I would get some indication around some of the fittings, but I couldn't get them to repeat.

Does anyone have any ideas? The system is currently working well with normal discharge (200 PSI) and suction (25-30 PSI) pressures.

One final thing - where is the orifice tube located? The reason I ask is the the metal line from the condenser to the evaporator is cold and sweats all the way from the condenser. I suspect that the orifice tube is located in that line somewhere. I'm used to having the orifice tube located just inside the evaporator.

Thanks again for your help.

Chick on Thu August 24, 2006 11:34 PM User is offlineView users profile

Front air only, O tube is at the condenser outlet. But was the system leaking? Was it recharged, which would mean it's leaking...Add some UV dye to the system. I found a few HT6's show dye around the seams where the compressor sections are put together. Dye shows up there pretty well..Use the glasses though..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

SMAir on Fri August 25, 2006 8:21 AM User is offline

I'll try some UV dye over the weekend. My CPS leak detector seems to do a good job with R12, but R143a leaks seem to be more elusive.

When using the UV do I need to have clean surfaces (in other words, do I need to clean the engine first) or is it better to have undisturbed surfaces? Do I put the dye in and immediately start looking for leaks or do I put the dye in and drive it for a while and then look for leaks?

Thanks.

Tom

TRB on Fri August 25, 2006 2:39 PM User is offlineView users profile

I suggest having a clean engine compartment when using a dye for leak checking an a/c system.

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Edited: Fri August 25, 2006 at 2:39 PM by TRB

SMAir on Fri August 25, 2006 4:23 PM User is offline

Thanks, Tim. I will clean the engine (which isn't really all that that dirty)

The accumulated patina of grunge might make it difficult to see the dye!

Do I need to drive the trunk for a while after I inject the dye before I start looking for the leak or should I start looking for the leak right after I inject the dye?

Chick on Fri August 25, 2006 6:21 PM User is offlineView users profile

You need to run the truck to circulate the dye. It travels with the refrigerant and oil..Some take longer to come out, but check closely the seams on the compressor, as they are known belly leakers...Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

DNT on Sun August 27, 2006 9:53 PM User is offlineView users profile

SMair you have found the weakness of the electronic leak detectors they do NOT do a good job on R134A. Do you have access to nitrogen and a flow guage and some R22? If not then dye will probably be your best bet. The HT6 compressor was notorious for body seal leaks!

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Anyone who gives up freedom for the sake of safety, deserves neither freedom nor safety!

SMAir on Sun August 27, 2006 10:31 PM User is offline

Thanks, DNT. I had come to the same conclusion that my electronic leak detector was not doing a good job detecting 134a leaks. The operating instructions require that you crank the sensitivity way up just to detect 134a. I would think I had found a leak, but could not get a repeat indication after moving the probe to clean air and then back to the suspected leak location.

I'll try dye and UV next week. From what I have heard, the HT6 compressor is probably the culprit. 'Tis a pity as the system really cools well - it just won't hold its refrigeration charge!

SMAir on Fri September 15, 2006 9:36 PM User is offline

Hopefully, for my final question: How do I add oil to the Sanden clone compressor? Do I put the recommended 3 oz. of oil in the suction port of the compressor and then turn the compressor over by hand about 20 revolutions?

By the way, the UV dye showed the leak on the under side of the old compressor!

Chick on Fri September 15, 2006 9:46 PM User is offlineView users profile

Should be an oil drain plug, fill it thru the plug on those with a drain plug..Hope this helps..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

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