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Orifice Tube can't get it in.........

cpiman on Sun July 30, 2006 1:14 AM User is offline

Year: 1985
Make: Chevy
Model: Camaro
Engine Size: 383
Refrigerant Type: R-134a

Well it has been a long day....... Been trying to get my AC back up and working. I took everything out about 12 years ago when I was young and not to bright...lol

Anyway I ordered all new Compressor, Lines, condenser Got the condenser, compressor, Dryer from ackits.net and new lines from GM.

I went to put in the ford (Blue) Orifice Tube and I can't get it in. I have destroyed 2 of them so far trying. Is there anything I am missing here? They go in about halfway and just stop.

To top that off I had the wrong compressor sent to me the pulley is to far out so the belt dose not line up right. I will call Monday to take care of that but i really need some help or ideas on this Orifice Tube issue.

Also here is a pick of the compressor if anybody has a idea of what compressor part number I should have gotten. The part number on this one is 201022CP.

Also My book says 6oz of oil just want to make sure that is right.





Edited: Sun July 30, 2006 at 1:31 AM by cpiman

Chick on Sun July 30, 2006 6:06 AM User is offlineView users profile

First, are there dimples in the line for the O tube? In other words are you trying to get it into the "same" spot is used to be in? If so, get a piece of wire and measure the O tube and see if the wire goes in as far as the O tube would. Theis will make sure there isn't something in the line stopping it, like another O tube. Some lines come with them already in the lines..If it's not in there, then oil the hell out of the new one, and push it in evenly. We've all had a few that the O rings start to "curl" off while putting them in, but once in they go easy. Like passing a rough spot..Also where is the O tube located??

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

cpiman on Sun July 30, 2006 12:36 PM User is offline

Thanks for the ideas. The tube is located on the evaporator high side. There are dimples in the line were the old tube was. I was able to pull the old one out (It was white). I can put a screwdriver in the line all the way without a problem but when I try the Orifice Tube OOO...Boy that don't work well. I am getting the O-rings in the line.

It looks like were the dimples are is were it is getting hung up at. If I push it in as far as I can mark were it stops then pull it out and match it up with the line it stops right at the dimples.

I was doing some looking lastnight and I came upon this EVAPORATOR CORE REPAIR KIT W/ORIFICE TUBE Now my local parts store also had this in stock and one of the guys behind the counter said some of the old evaporators you could not put a orifice tube back in the line.

Here is a pick of it......




Thanks for the help Chick!

Edited: Sun July 30, 2006 at 12:37 PM by cpiman

Chick on Sun July 30, 2006 12:45 PM User is offlineView users profile

Well, that is ridicules if you can't put an O tube in the line. Has to be some kind of mistake or tooling error. I would NOT add the O tube repair kit. You're adding extra leak points for the future. If you can get the O tube in as far as it goes, try putting the line over the part that sticks out and see if the fitting will butt to the other end. If it does, leave it like that. Obviously the O tube is seating (O rings tight) if that is as far as it will go. But change the evaporator before cutting it up..Just my opinion though...
Try putting a GM white in, just in case the blue is somehow different..never saw that happen, but anything is possible. But I do know if an inch is sticking out, the other lines will go over it. Let us know..

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

TRB on Sun July 30, 2006 2:56 PM User is offlineView users profile

Give us a call Monday and we will see what can be done with the compressor issue. I did double check and the vendor lists that as the correct compressor. I also checked 2 other sources and they list the same clutch distance as that one you have. Is this the original motor or has it been swapped out for a different year block?

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

cpiman on Sun July 30, 2006 3:52 PM User is offline

All of the accessory on the engine are from the original engine (305). The one compressor with the bolt in the back of it is the original that was on the car before I took it off. The other compressor is from a 86 camaro.

I am using all the pulleys that came with the car when I got it in 93.

You can see that the pulley grove is definitely in a different spot compared the the old ones I have.

Thanks for the help. I will give you guys a call tomorrow. Is there someone I should ask for when I call?

Chick on Sun July 30, 2006 5:09 PM User is offlineView users profile

The two on the right are the only type single groove pulleys I ever see in the yard, and have seen a few "newer" rebuilt that don't have the big heavy clutch, but the pulley was always the same distance. (groove) Measure the distance from the compressor body to the center of the groove on your old one and the new one so you can give them the measurements when you call. Try to get the flattest spot on the body to measure from. Did the box have a name on it? color of the box? Just curious

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

TRB on Sun July 30, 2006 6:03 PM User is offlineView users profile

Ask for Jack and he amy need to check a few things as you have the compressor the vendor lists for the 85 Camero. Clutch form this vendor will be a little different then the OEM compressor which came on the vehicle but the mounting distance should be the same. If you can get that measurement it will help determine if they installed the wrong clutch or if there is another issue.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

steeler82 on Wed June 18, 2008 5:59 PM User is offlineView users profile

cpiman, did you have any luck figuring out the problem with the otube not going in all the way? I'm having the same problem, have broken one trying to get it inserted, and the second one was forced in with an inch plus sticking out/covered by the other end of the line. I haven't vacuumed/charged it yet, and as for now will likely have a pro replace it for me. thanks.

iceman2555 on Wed June 18, 2008 8:15 PM User is offlineView users profile

The Ford Blue orifice has a different diameter than the standard GM white unit. If the GM evap line is on the tight side for a standard GM unit...the Ford is probably not going to fit. Try the lube idea....a little extra lube always makes thing slide together a bit easier.....but why not just stay with the OE white unit.....many techs swear by the Ford in the GM thing...but when we tested the set up on test stands we found very little difference in the two orifices.
Good luck!!!

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

cpiman on Wed June 18, 2008 9:31 PM User is offline

I ended up putting a stock tube back in. If fit fine after that. It cooled just fine It was nice and cold!

TRB on Thu June 19, 2008 11:33 AM User is offlineView users profile

Got out the digital caliper this morning just for the fun of it. When measuring the diameter I did so at the o-ring which is the largest diameter.

Blue Orifice tube. .408 diameter - 3.484 length

White Orifice tube. .397 diameter - 3.512 length

Personally think the dual o-ring on the blue OT was more an issue than overall diameter. That and making it sure it's being inserted in the proper direction.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com


Edited: Fri June 20, 2008 at 1:41 AM by TRB

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