Engine Size: 1.6l
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 89
Pressure Low: 25
Pressure High: 175
Country of Origin: United States
Bought this car for my daughter to use for college (the Taurus, Volvo, and Nissan didn't cut it). I do not like compact cars and this one is a tin can but she likes it. She complained to me that the AC would get warm while driving and she would have to turn it off and back on to get it to kick in again.
I hooked up my guages and it seems to do a weird thing. The compressor would stay engaged at idle and it will stay engaged if you slowly rev the engine, the low side is about 35psi at idle speed and 22-25 at 2000rpm. However if you quickly rev the engine it cuts out and will not cut back in until the low side hits 55-60psi. This is a TXV that takes a small charge I think about 1 3/4 lbs. Looks like the low pressure switch is mounted on the compressor.
Anybody have experience with these Korean cars that you can share with me? I think I need to replace the low pressure switch but I figured I would ask first to see if there are any common problems to look out for on this model. It has the 1.6L 3-valve engine with a compressor that I have never seen before.
I "believe" they use the FS10 compressor, so clutch gap problems would be common on them as on Fords..Try the tapping the clutch inwards when it stops..If it grabs, then adjust the clutch gap..The use a drier/expansion valve system, so the switch would be last in my opinion..Hope this helps.
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
That makes perfect sense. I hate these transverse mounted engines, what a pain to get to. Unfortunately we just took her off to college Thursday so the AC will have to wait for spring break.
Take it easy....
Could be something to do with the throttle positioning sensor. These usually cut the compressor when they see a big throttle movement, and cut back in when things stabilise.
Doesn't Rob Temple deal with Hyundais?
My 2004 Accent takes about 10 minutes to start cooling after I turn on the switch. And then it only will turn on after running at an idle(say a long red light or just parked somewhere waiting while the engine is running). Once I drive off again, the A/C kicks in, you can feel a slight drag on the engine like the compressor clutch is engaging, and then it cools fine after that until the next time you shut the engine down. I'm just wondering if a scan of engine codes could detect a faulty throttle position sensor as was listed above. I've added freon and changed the cabin air filters as suggested by other forums but no luck. In fact the old cabin air filters weren't even in the vehicle when I went to replace them so maybe dirt and dust has clogged something up in the duct work. I could take it to a A/C specialist I guess, but I'd rather solve this myself. Thanks.
Best to start a new thread. Post readings and such so the readers have some information to base a suggestion.
Compressor reluctant to engage suggests the clutch gap is too wide. When you hit the rpm just right, things vibrate and it pulls in. Check if the compressor gets 12 volts right away when you push the button.
Thanks MK, if that works, look for a small donation to your Paypal or charity of your choice.
I checked the connection to the compressor with a test light and it's not getting any voltage to the compressor. I also checked all the fuses but they're all good. The switch lights up when its pressed but I will check the leads coming off the back of it tomorrow.
Find the compressor relay and swap it out. There is usually another relay of the same type somewhere nearby on the car. Also check the fuse and relay sockets for any signs of overheating and melted plastic.
Solved! Swappped out the relay with an adjacent one and it works perfectly. Just one last question that's bugging me-why did the a/c work part of the time then after 10 mins sitting at idle? Not for nuthin, Napa auto parts was about $15 cheaper on this relay than the competitors Thanks.
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